A change of pace …

Cold, rain threatening and we get out of the apartment at 2:30. We walk a few blocks to Carrefour de l’Odeon, a crossroads surrounded by bistros and brasseries.  We go into Les Editeurs because we remember the taste of the last onion soup we had there.


Les Editeurs is two floors of small wooden tables and red circular chairs. The walls are lined with photos of famous writers and the shelves are lined with books giving the room the feel of a library or one of those private Ivy League clubs in New York City.


Les Editeurs is historically a hangout for book types and those devoted to getting out “the word”. We are seated and on one side of us is a man and a woman in an animated discussion with papers strewn over the tiny table; on the other side two men discussing a script they were holding in their hands and drinking something that looked and smelled warm and delicious.  E knows he wants one even though he can’t identify it.

We order two onion soups and E is compelled to ask one of the men what he is drinking and it turns out to be Grog – rum with hot water, simple syrup and lemon.

We are sitting in between this industrious foursome with nothing to do but enjoy the moment. It is after 3 PM and if this were New York or LA the meetings would be happening in offices. The wonder of this culture is how much is done in café’s: reading, writing, working, meeting, conversation— while having a grog or an espresso and getting the job done.  Still like when Hemingway or Pound or Elliot, sat at the Closerie de Lilas or Le Select or a dozen other spots.


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